Kanchenjunga BC to Makalu BC GHT Traveller Reviews

I had my eye on this trek for a while because of its remoteness, length - 36 days, challenge, beauty and legendary mystery surrounding Kanchenjunga. I was also spurred on by the account of fellow trekker who had just completed this section of the GHT in winter. I was delighted when Roland guaranteed it run with Ade at the helm and when two great mountain buddies also signed up. We were seven very experienced trekkers with over 40 Himalayan treks between us, very well briefed by TMC and well equipped. I have now had six weeks to process this rare and remarkable experience and digest the published trip report, which, does an honest job of describing what happened at ground level; including the struggles and inevitable ‘curved- ball’ logistic issues. I do recommend reading the report. I recognise that this trek has not run for ten years. Roland and the TMC put a huge amount of time and resources into planning such a complex operation which is credit to him and speaks volumes about his vision to keep the art of remote trekking alive. Ade is a renowned expert and is truly unique -  with years of international wilderness leadership and his buoyant benevolent nature. Sanja and Suman were top notch. The Kitchen first class. The porters were brilliant, the brand new mountain tents were robust and watertight and the lodges Kanchenjunga-side a welcome refuge. The views of Kanchenjunga and Jannu were spectacular. The ‘Pass B’ detour to Olangchungola  was 1800m up and down, thick bamboo forest, slippery, leeches, bugs, landslides, treacherous, exhausting but unforgettable. Lumba-Sumba was just heavenly. There was Thudum -  the ‘village that time forgot’, the grace of the villagers we met who could teach us more lessons about simplicity, hardship and happiness than we would care to admit.  The ‘jungle’ crossing to Kharka was wild, wet, slippery, dangerous, with few mountain views but the forest beautiful and unspoilt. There was this ethereal morning view of Makalu from our emergency shelter at ‘first’ Kharka. We had more than our fair share of adverse conditions, two casualties, Global Rescue, interpersonal clashes, misinformation about the Yangma bridge; we found ourselves three days behind and the remaining two of us elected to forego the final push to Makalu BC. Why five stars? I will answer in a somewhat  poetic form which does not answer all questions but is spoken from the heart. Because of the rarity of this opportunity, because these giant remote mountains did welcome us and reward us with passage, because this wilderness is not going to be here forever; the massive logistical effort, the guides and crew who became our loyal extended family for 5 weeks, without complaint. The camaraderie and the opportunity to connect and care. The bitter and the sweet, the risk , the pressure pushing us to our limit, the successes and failures. Because we came home spent. A pilgrimage in the words of Ian Baker where a “destination is ultimately not so much a place as a new way of seeing”.  Far more profound than any sightseeing joyride. Because in true TMC fashion Roland has stepped up to the challenges to make this trek even better. If you have the inclination - go - prepared to be immersed and with your eyes and heart wide open.

Committed to the art of remote trekking.